I've removed the wrap, and now I lay it down on top of the new aluminum to trace the pattern and cut the replacement.
This side was so corroded that there were tears, breaks, and large gaps, especially right where the plywood floor rested against it.
Just as on the other side, I used the old as a pattern for the new, traced it, and cut it using the electric shears and the hand tin snips. Then I started working it in, this time I started near the wheel well and it went a lot easier. Sliding a putty knife in first to make some room helps, then the bellypan can slide in underneath it.
I got the curved/tabbed section slid in, drilled and clecoed a few of the holes, but I still need to adjust the outer shell a bit before drilling all of the holes, clecoing, and then riveting into place.
However, I just had to try out my new rivet gun and bucking bar on something, and I've had an access hatch that has been bugging me for a while. At some point, the door was repaired and about half of the solid rivets were replaced with steel pop rivets, that had since rusted out and deteriorated quite a bit. Since it was easy to get to both sides of the sheet metal, I decided this would be the perfect opportunity to change out those rivets and replace them with proper bucked rivets. First I drilled out the old rusty steel rivets and clecoed in place.
And then I worked my way around, pulling the clecoes and bucking in solid rivets. And of course since the rivets are gold with the protective coating, I just had to polish a little bit to bring out their true silver shine.
I actually enjoyed the buck-riveting, and am now looking forward to the riveting when I permanently attach the bellypan banana wraps.
And here's the latest to be added to my growing pile headed for the recycler. My wife Mary will NOT be missing having this lying around the driveway...
3 comments:
Nice rivets Marcus. I'll be doing lots of bucking (I hope) once the floor's back on. Just wondered exactly which rivets you used; 5/32 Universal Head ? hard or soft (or can you get semi-hard) ? And who did you order them from ? I'll have to find a supplier across the pond here in the UK.
Good work with the old banana wraps - tricky work getting them to curl neatly and your's look great.
Chris
Thanks Chris, it was actually fun, and I bet you will find it so as well.
And yes, you are correct, I used 5/32 head universal rivets. From the Forums, I gathered that the originals were 1/8 brazier head, but that the heads on the 5/32 are closer. Since I happen to have some 1/8 universal heads on-hand as well, I can confirm this to be true. So the 5/32 universal most closely match the head size on the old brazier-headed ones. The length on the ones I've used so far is the -4 since I've just gone through two sheets' thickness. I also ordered some -5 and -6 for when I'm going through more sheets and thicker pieces, like the steel angle brackets on either side of the bottom of the last main rib before the endcaps.
I got the hard allow, designated as "AD." And I ordered them from Airparts Inc here in the USA. Another good supplier in the USA that a lot of people use is Airsraft Spruce, and I'm sure there are others. The great thing about solid rivets is that they are so cheap, I was able to order down in the 1/4-lb and 1/8-lb weights, which is still several hundred rivets. More than I will need for the back half AND front half renovations.
-Marcus
Marcus, it's looking good. Make sure and use plenty of "lubricant" when doing the belly corners, it cuts down on undue stress on you and the Overlander. I found the perfect viscosity in top shelf Margaritas, and for less sensitive areas, a local micro brew will definitely do the job.
Uwe
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